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Jeweler Training
PATTERNED METAL EDU

Heavy Stone Rings Education

WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT DAMASCUS, MOKUME GANE & MOKU-TI

Patterned metal is often called the “art of the snowflake,” as the layering technique used to create materials like Damascus Stainless Steel, Mokume-Gane, and Mokuti results in no two pieces ever looking exactly the same. The fact is, patterned metal is among the hardest to forge, but the result ensures a piece that’s truly one-of-a-kind. Your piece will look a little different from any other. Anticipate the specialness of what’s to come.

Damascus Stainless Steel is known for its distinctive wave pattern. It’s made by layering Stainless Steels 304 and 316 together, medical-grade alloys that are hypoallergenic and will never rust or corrode. By applying intense heat and pressure, the stainless steels are forged and welded into a solid Damascus billet. The billet is then cut, twisted, and carved to create a stunning final pattern. Although not always applied, Damascus can be etched with ferric chloride or muriatic acid, creating a distinctive texture and a black contrast.

 

EVERY DAMASCUS PIECE WILL BOAST A DIFFERENT PATTERN. THE PIECE WILL EITHER FEATURE BLACK ETCHING OR A SLEEK ALL-METAL LOOK.

ORIGIN | EARLIEST INGOTS MADE IN INDIA & SRI LANKA & THEN FORGED INTO SWORDS IN DAMASCUS, SYRIA, DURING THE CRUSADES. 

LOOK | WAVY, WATER-LIKE PATTERNS. W/ OR W/O BLACK CONTRAST AND SURFACE TEXTURE DUE TO ETCHING.

STYLING | COMPLETE PIECE OR INLAY. 

CARE | DURABLE. HYPOALLERGENIC. WILL NOT RUST OR CORRODE.

Meaning “wood grain metal” or “wood eye metal,” mokume-gane is a laminated metal made by placing thin sheets of precious metals in a kiln together, one on top of the other, like a stack of paper. Extreme heat and pressure compress this “billet” together. As the molecules intermingle, they fuse, creating thin additional layers. No solder is ever used. The billet is a riot of color that is then manipulated, twisted, carved, and forged to create beautiful organic patterns. The specific combination of precious metals used is piece-specific, offering a variety of color combinations.

THE MOKUME FORGING PROCESS OFFERS UNIQUE SYMBOLISM FOR COUPLES. A SINGLE PIECE TAKES MANY HOURS TO COMPLETE.

ORIGIN | JAPANESE SAMURAI SWORDMAKING (HILTS) FROM THE 17TH CENTURY.

LOOK | RESEMBLES WOOD GRAIN, WITH CONTRASTING LAYERED COLORS OF PINK, YELLOW & WHITE.

STYLING | COMPLETE RING OR INLAY.

CARE | WEAR MOKUME RINGS AS YOU WOULD ANY PRECIOUS METAL PIECE.

Much like mokume, mokuti is a patterned metal made by layering titanium alloys together (one a pure titanium and the other aircraft-grade titanium). The difference in the way the alloys react to heat creates a vibrant color play, with shades of blue the dominant resulting colors. The layers resemble flowing water. The finish is durable, but could eventually show scratches or fade without proper care. Mokuti is popular among artisans in the knifemaking industry.

ORIGIN | KNIFE MAKING

LOOK | RESEMBLES BLUE WATER AT SUNSET.

STYLING | COMPLETE RING OR INLAY.

CARE | REMOVE AT THE GYM OR WHILE DOING TOUGH WORK WITH YOUR HANDS.